• Katrine’s Fabric Survey - From: Katrine De Saint Brieuc (Katherine Barich)Posted to the 12th century Garb List on Saturday, October 12, 2002:(Message #288) Updated fabric survey (really long) "Hello everyone interested! "I've gone through a few more sources and have listed the cross references that have come up. It's been pretty enlightening as it appears that there is some confusion among scholars about fabrics. I am starting to see some trends, however. "Each quoted definition is followed by a code for the source with the page number. The books referenced so far: Norris1 = Ancient European Costume and Fashion by Herbert NorrisNorris2 = Medieval Csotume…
  • Fabric - (A compendium of information from discussions on the 12th Century Garb Yahoo Group list) Weaving Drafts Q: "I am coming ever closer to my goal of creating a cloak of handwoven fabric of handwoven weft (I am new to the drop-spindle, and fear it will be a long time before I have the expertise and the volume to produce both weft and warp). Are there any 12th c fibre-resources out there for me to determine what draft I could use to be "period?" I really want to do this right the first time, but do not have much in the way of a reference library on…
  • Shot Silk/Mixed Weaves - I am currently fondling a beautiful piece of linen/silk I brought home from Pennsic two years ago. It's woven of blue silk on the weft and yellow linen on the warp, resulting in a green fabric that shimmers. Does anyone have documentation that suggests such a weave was used? I'm going to use it to make a bliaut regardless, as the hand of the fabric will lend itself very well to bliaut folds but is strong enough to take all the eyelets, but I am curious where it falls on the authenticity scale. Thank you! ~ Kelda ferch Ystwyth Message…
  • Wool Types - (original subject line:  “Wool types and Colors”) Q:  What type of wool is period (worsted, twill, flannel, etc.)? A#1:  The museum of London book, "textiles and clothing" I am told discusses this topic, but with major references to the 13 and 14th centuries and somewhat scanty references to the 12th. Still, it may have the odd example of 12thC stuff, and even so, many 13th C trends will hold true for the 12th Century. ~ Teffania Tukerton / Tiffany Brown Message #888, March 9, 2003 A#2:  From what I have seen in the archaeological record and through documents about the…
  • Fabric Color - (original subject line:  “Wool types and Colors”) Q:  Would a wedgewood-like blue, royal blue (like on the US flag), a bright medium blue, or a deep olive be period? A#1:  I'll try and give you a start: Blues: The only period bright blue clothing dye* I am aware of is woad.  It can produce a dark violet colour, a dark blue (some batches described as rather dull, others as brighter), and some fairly pale blues. There are some pictures at: www.bleu-de-lectoure.com As far as i can figure, you get basically the same shade, just lighter or darker. Some factors in…
  • The Language of Color Value - I was thinking about the difficulties of communicating color value. One idea I have seen tried elsewhere is using a DMC embroidery thread equivalent. The charts are relatively inexpensive (and useful for those who embroider) and would allow for an understanding of color without the variances in color calibration on different monitors. (The company I work for makes lots of money selling monitors and devices that can calibrate color to the advertising industries...) For those who don't have a chart, a simple visit to the fabric store to look for the number might not be too difficult to achieve. There…
  • Period Colours - Hi Everyone, I thought it was about time I introduced myself and this is a subject where I may have something to offer. I am Debra and I have to admit I belong to a C13th group, but my obsession with clothes from all era's led me to this group. Three years ago I finished my degree and my final project was an educational kit for children, teaching them about aspects of historical dying, weaving etc. - I had help from a very nice Lady from Regia Anglorum who provided me with a selection of dyed samples extant from 800-1600+.…
  • Silk Weaves - What might have silk from the 12th century look like? I've heard that some silk came back with the Crusaders and that very wealthy ladies wore it, but I have no idea what weave would be appropriate. Can I get away with a dupioni (which is kind of nubby), or do I need to watch for something with a smoother weave? All help appreciated. 🙂 ~ Jannifer / Jan C. Lane Message #927, March 19, 2003 I have heard that dupioni is fine, but a finer weave is better. My understanding is that silk noil is actually less period than…