Byzantine collar question

I’m still working on my Byzantine garb. 🙂
Would anyone know if the collar (I can’t remember the proper name off hand, the vertical piece was the pallium) could have a light, soft leather for a base? I’m planning embroidery in bright silk colors but was trying to figure out the best thing for a nice stiff base.

Should I need a light canvas fabric, or a stiffened broadcloth, or leather, or…….

Anyone with experience to share out there?

~ Benedicta / Karla Dick
Message #918, March 17, 2003

These collars are called superhumerals. I don’t know that we actually have any of those collars around. I did one on very heavy linen and it worked well, but mine was beaded not embroidered.

I would love to see it when you finish. I love Byzantine stuff!

~ Louise de La Mare
Message #940, March 22, 2003

I’m thinking embroidery on the base of fabric and then add some beads later on top. Linen? I think I’ve some in a different color than my heavier dress fabric.

What weight linen would be best for each layer? This tunic is in a fairly heavy linen, but I’m planning others.

~ Benedicta / Karla Dick
Message #945, March 23, 2003

I don’t remember the weight. I made it about 3 years ago. The linen has worked very well. it is heavy enough to support all the beading that I did, but not so stiff that it sticks out funny across my shoulders and collar bone.

I used 2 layers. one with all the beading, then one to back it and hide/protect all the stitches. Mine is purple which contrasts with the yellow “tunic” (it has a specific name that I cannot remember right now.)

I have also seen one done with the soft rayon ecclesiastical fabrics that have a period pattern, but not fabric content. then it was backed with something heavy. I thought it looked nice.

~ Louise de La Mare
Message #940, March 22, 2003

The ones I have seen made and made for myself seem to be fairly stiff. I think you could get away with a lined linen one if you are in a hot climate if you don’t weigh it down too heavily with the beadwork.
Currently I’m really liking wool embroidery on woolen garments, but here in An Tir, one can wear this almost all year. It looks like the texts differentiate between wear for cold weather and warm weather.

These collars are called ‘Barmy or Barmi’ in Russian costuming which is quite similar to Byzantine costume of this period. Anyone know what the Greek word in period for the superhumeral was?

~ Katrine / Katherine Barich
Message #947, March 23, 2003