• Coronation Clothing of Roger II - Coronation Clothing of Roger II [Note:  The file folder mentioned in the following message is no longer in Files section of Yahoo Group.  The message has been retained in the archive for reference.  The suite of clothes in question are fairly well-know at this point (17 years later).] "I uploaded a few files in the Extant Coronation Robes file folder created last night. I thought it would be cool to share the photos/drawings I have been collecting of 12th century extant garb, starting with the coronation goodies of the Holy Roman Emperor. I have quite a few more to come.… …
  • Becket Tunic - "Here's the response I received to my inquiry about the Becket Tunic - there has been something published - talk about esoteric, an English saint's relic in Italy, examined by a German expert, and the report in a hard-to-find Italian Art Journal, written in Italian by said German expert, no less. (Note to self -hopelessly outclassed...) "I'm no expert at Italian, (stifle laughing please) but I think the title reads: The 'tunicella' of Thomas Becket in Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome, Religion and art surrounding a saintly 'politician'. "I'll be trying to get a copy on ILL - no local… …
  • Thomas Becket’s Chemise - Finally! ILL came through today with the article 'La Tunicella di Tommaso Becket in S. Maria Maggiore a Roma. Cuto e arte intorn a un santo "Politico"' from Arte Medievale IX, nr. 1, 1995, pages 105 - 120, by Ursula Nilgen. Unfortunately the photos didn't reproduce well for a clear view, but I will be going to Seattle soon, and UW has this journal, so I might be able to scan it for better resolution. But until then... This is a photograph of the chemise: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/12thcenturygarb/files/Katrine%27s%20picks/tunicella%20photo.jpg Here is the layout of the chemise: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/12thcenturygarb/files/Katrine%27s%20picks/tunicella%20pattern.jpg There is a short synopsis in… …
  • Extant bliaut bits? - On the Authentic-SCA list, we were discussing the differences between bliaut, cotehardies, etc, and someone said there was no extant instances of bliaut. Then someone else said:“ah - there is. In Lodose they've found several sections of these gowns, with pleating. The pleats are actually sewn in with running stitches. The biggest piece is IIRC 80x50 cm, so significant bits of cloth. The pictures and stuff can be found in 'Den Ljusa Medeltiden'.”Do we have any more info on this?~ Brangwayna Message #997, April 8, 2003 I have the book on order at the library. I'll be happy to share… …
  • Pleated Textiles from Lödöse (12th Century Göteborg, Sweden) - Original Subject line: "Pleating from Den Ljusa Medeltilden" {Editor’s notes:  #1 -- This discussion refers to an article ("Medeltida dräkt i bild och verklighet" -- " Medieval costume in image and reality" published in a book called "Den Ljusa medeltiden: studier tillägnade Aron Andersson" -- "The Bright Middle Ages: studies dedicated to Aron Andersson", published in 1984 by the Museum of National Antiquities in Stockholm, Sweden. #2 -- the scans referenced below were no longer in the files section when these discussion were being transfered; in the early days of the 12th Century Garb List, there was limited room for… …
  • Attaching Pleats - What is the preferred method of pleating and attachment for separate skirt/bodice bliaut construction? Looking at the diagram in Den Ljusa Medeltiden (thanks Katherine) really explains what we see in Gothic statuary. Sort of like the stitched crease down the front of polyester stretch pants (shudder) only in reverse. Random thought . . . if they went to that much trouble, some form of smocking is certainly possible . . . . Whether it's plausible or not is another question . . . anyway . . . in attaching a pleated skirt, would one use a form of cartridge pleating,… …
  • Alb Gores - Detail of gore pleating on Alb of St. Bernulf from 'Textile Conservation and Research' by Mechthild Flury-Lemberg Well, I _finally_ got to take a look at the alb gore -- Awesome pix! There is a technique called 'Italian Smocking' that creates diamond patterns similar to that seen in the gore. The directions for it are in a book called MANIPULATING FABRIC . . . I think. I loaned the book to someone before I moved last December and can't remember who has it at the moment. I bought the book from Pastish. Asha would know the one I am referring… …