• More Nordic Wooden Sculptures - Finally I've uploaded some more Nordic pictures. They are in a photo album called “Wooden Sculpture”. My favourite Madonna, the one from Heda is there. BTW does anybody know how you do if you want to change the name of the photo album? I have some illuminations scanned that I want to add too, and then name doesn't make much sense. ~ Aleydis van Vilvorde/ Eva Andersson Message #1059, April 23, 2003 Madonna from Heda Thanks for sharing these! I note that all three Madonnas have the unusual neckline with a round piece that approximates where a keyhole neckline would… …
  • Alb Gores - Detail of gore pleating on Alb of St. Bernulf from 'Textile Conservation and Research' by Mechthild Flury-Lemberg Well, I _finally_ got to take a look at the alb gore -- Awesome pix! There is a technique called 'Italian Smocking' that creates diamond patterns similar to that seen in the gore. The directions for it are in a book called MANIPULATING FABRIC . . . I think. I loaned the book to someone before I moved last December and can't remember who has it at the moment. I bought the book from Pastish. Asha would know the one I am referring… …
  • Attaching Pleats - What is the preferred method of pleating and attachment for separate skirt/bodice bliaut construction? Looking at the diagram in Den Ljusa Medeltiden (thanks Katherine) really explains what we see in Gothic statuary. Sort of like the stitched crease down the front of polyester stretch pants (shudder) only in reverse. Random thought . . . if they went to that much trouble, some form of smocking is certainly possible . . . . Whether it's plausible or not is another question . . . anyway . . . in attaching a pleated skirt, would one use a form of cartridge pleating,… …
  • Pleated Textiles from Lödöse (12th Century Göteborg, Sweden) - Original Subject line: "Pleating from Den Ljusa Medeltilden" {Editor’s notes:  #1 -- This discussion refers to an article ("Medeltida dräkt i bild och verklighet" -- " Medieval costume in image and reality" published in a book called "Den Ljusa medeltiden: studier tillägnade Aron Andersson" -- "The Bright Middle Ages: studies dedicated to Aron Andersson", published in 1984 by the Museum of National Antiquities in Stockholm, Sweden. #2 -- the scans referenced below were no longer in the files section when these discussion were being transfered; in the early days of the 12th Century Garb List, there was limited room for… …
  • Sleeves? - I've seen the argument for both the angel wing sleeve and the maunch-type sleeve. Do the more learned folks on this list lean towards one or the other? Also, what is a good length for the sleeves? I'm not sure I have enough fabric for them to go all the way to the floor, is knee length ok, or should I just do something else with that fabric? ~ Giovanna Message #1026, April 16, 2003 I have seen very little evidence for the angel wing sleeves in the French sources. I'm definitely a maunch girl. The length was a matter… …
  • Questions About Construction - Hi! I'm new to this list and to early period garb. After 5yrs of doing Elizabethan and two kids later, I've given up wearing corsets 🙂 I've been searching the web and there seems to be no real consensus on the basic construction of the bliaut. Do most people follow the tunic construction (long rectangles for front and back with gores)or the separate pleated skirt cut? Also, this may be a stupid question, when the directions call for cutting the bodice several inches (or in one case 1 1/2x)the torso length, is that the length from under the bust to… …
  • Extant bliaut bits? - On the Authentic-SCA list, we were discussing the differences between bliaut, cotehardies, etc, and someone said there was no extant instances of bliaut. Then someone else said:“ah - there is. In Lodose they've found several sections of these gowns, with pleating. The pleats are actually sewn in with running stitches. The biggest piece is IIRC 80x50 cm, so significant bits of cloth. The pictures and stuff can be found in 'Den Ljusa Medeltiden'.”Do we have any more info on this?~ Brangwayna Message #997, April 8, 2003 I have the book on order at the library. I'll be happy to share… …
  • 12th century Finnish - As nearly as I can tell, this is our 12th Century. Has anyone done anything with this? Is there any research on this you can point me to? http://www.mlab.uiah.fi/Mulli/html/media/valokuva/e_puku.html ~ Esther / ED Reese Message #969, April 2, 2003 Finds from Grave IV of Kansakoulunm�ki Hill made it possible to research the typical of a wealthy12th Century lady wore on special occasions. One part of the dress was a skirt made of white woollen cloth. On top of that, there was a dark woollen shirt, that was fastened at the shoulders by bronze pennannular brooches. The upper part of the… …
  • Ease over the Bust in a Bliaut - How much ease is there over the bust in a bliaut? I was going to go with the patterns in the files and the one on the Janecourt site (spelling?) but have no idea how much ease to allow over the bust.  My Elizabethan shift has six inches and that seems to be about right for a shift but 12th century is a little earlier than I'm used to and I think the bliaut fits tighter so you get those lovely lines over the abdomen. Any help from those of you who have made the lovely gowns in the photo… …
  • More Suckenie Information - Hi all and Belinda especially, Got a nifty little doctoral thesis in on ILL -- Bezeichnungen Für FrauenKleidungsstücke Und Kleiderschmuck Im MittelNeiderDeutschen, Zugleich Ein Betrag Zur Kostümkunde by Gudrun Lindskog-Wallenburg.  This book quotes literary sources, inventories and sumptuary laws to date names of types of clothing in Middle Lower German. This mostly covers medieval to renaissance words. I wanted to post what this article had to say about the suckenie. It starts by talking about the 16th century terms in Northern Germany of assuke and suken, used from 1582 to about 1618. These were women's outer clothes of wool, generally… …