What is the preferred
method of pleating and attachment for separate skirt/bodice bliaut construction? Looking at the
diagram in Den Ljusa Medeltiden (thanks
Katherine) really explains what we see in Gothic
statuary. Sort of like the stitched crease down the front of polyester stretch pants (shudder) only in reverse.
Random thought . . . if they went to that
much trouble, some form of smocking is
certainly possible . . . . Whether it’s plausible or not is another question . . . anyway . . . in attaching a
pleated skirt,
would one use a form of cartridge pleating,
little knife pleats or . . .? I’m
thinking fine cartridge pleating would hang beautifully and, depending on the fabric, eliminate the need for all
that “pin tucking” be it hand or
machine.
~ Isabeau du Lis Noire / Beth Richardson
Message #1044, April 19, 2003
It’s a question I’ve been kicking around too! I have found 2 examples of actual smocking in 16th century Germany, but this is used as sort of a period elastic at the neck and arm bands.
I’ve uploaded a detail photo from the wonderful book “Textile Conservation and Research, A Documentation of the Textile Department on the Occasion of the Twentieth Anniversary of the Abegg Foundation” by Mechthild Flury-Lemberg. Isabeau, you will want to look at this book if you haven’t seen it yet. It appears to be rather unknown in An Tir… Of special interest will be the trim from 12th century Sicily with fleur de lis! There is also great information on how jewels were attached to an 11th century chasuble, which is very much what I think was happening on the 12th century garb.
Anyway, about the Alb. Saint Bernulf died in 1056, but the textile experts think that the trim on the alb dates to the late 12th century. They are not sure if the actual linen garment is from the 11th century and decorated later, or if it is from the 12th century. At any rate, the pattern reminds me a lot of smocking, but the description is ‘white work on the left gore’ and no further information is given outlined in the technical details section. It might be worth asking the question to the Abegg Foundation. This might be an interesting pleating finish on a bliaut.
~ Katrine de Saint Brieuc / Katherine Barich
Message #1046, April 19, 2003
WOW! I was blown away by this picture! Has anyone else noticed just how frequently this same diamond
pattern shows up on the sculptures of Chartres?
~ Louise de La Mare
Message #1049, April 20, 2003
From looking at the art
work it appears that the seam at the waist, when there is one, is often covered
with a strip of braid. This is often had to spot if the statue is also wearing
a double belt, but there are examples were no belt is worn and there you can
see it more clearly. However there is also at least one example where there is
not belt, no braid and what appears to be a definite waist seam. It’s extremely
hard to tell what the method of joining might be. If the stone mason even tried
to portray that kind of detail then is has worn away over time. But I think
very fine cartridge pleating would look fine.
One thing we should remember were looking at
this sort of thing is that period hand sewing was incredibly fine. There are
examples where there is a stitch for every thread of the cloth, and the two
pieces are virtually woven together. Period literature praises that sort of
craftsmanship.
~ Rowena Le Sarjent / Belinda Sibly
Message #1051, April 21, 2003