Most of the websites
I’ve seen recommend trim to embellish bliauts. Is this because it better replicates what was used or
because it’s easier than embroidery? I
have some trim that has a good pattern, but I also have some good patterns for my computerized embroidery
machine. Which one is more appropriate,
assuming that I’m not going for 100% authenticity?
~ Giovanna
Message #1030, April 17, 2003
I would guess
that people use trim because it’s easier. The only thing that might replicate modern trim in
period would be some sort of card-weaving, I believe, and I don’t know if we have evidence for cardweaving used in
that way. I know there is evidence for
using it to finish the edges, but I’m not certain
about that being patterned – although there was a gentleman in the hall at EK Coronation putting tablet-woven patterned
edging on a shirt during court.
Me, I’m crazy; I’m embroidering mine by hand.
And if I don’t get cracking on it, it
will be four years before I can wear it.
~ Brangwayna
Message #1032, April 18, 2003
I’m with Brangwayna on
this one. I enjoy embroidery and now that I have a full enough medieval wardrobe,
I’m a bit snobbish about any new garb I make. Machine made trim, while some of it is awesome, looks like machine made
trim to me and I’d rather embellish it myself.
And since I have no intention of learning
anymore new hobbies in this great hobby of ours, card weaving is not in my close future (though I have to
admit to trying it in the past.) Nothing
makes one feel better than looking good in something you have created yourself.
~ Katerina la Bisbetica / Denise PS
Message # 1034, April 18, 2003
The period term for
the decorative trims on Bliauts is Orfrios = Gold work. The term is now most
often applied to elaborate embroidered trim used on ecclesiastical garments,
and most of the existing period examples are also embroidered pieces from ecclesiastical
garments, and almost always includes a lot of metal thread. However the trim we
see on the statues and other artwork, which is referred to as
“orfrios” in the literature definitely appears to be a type of trim,
and there are strong arguments being put forward that it is indeed a type of
cardweaving, probably brocaded tablet weaving. There are existing examples of
cardweaving from this period. One is used to hem the Roger of Sicily cope.
To answer your question, trim both replicates
what we most often see in the artwork, and it’s easier. The trim is not just decorative;
it also helps tidily finish the seams. Assuming you are not going for 100%
authenticity I’d go for making your own trim on the computerised sewing
machine. Make sure to include some metal thread.
~ Rowena Le Sarjent / Belinda Sibly
Message #1052, April 21, 2003
The one feature I’ve
noticed about many 12th century trims depicted in drawings or statues is that they are very linear. We
have quite a few examples of 12th century
brocaded tabletweaving used as edgings on ecclesiastical
garb, but I’m sure there are also plenty of examples of embroidery.
The linear nature of such finishing trims in many cases, makes me wonder
if, even when embroidery was used, it originated
from trying to copy tabletwoven trim,
which could be equally opulent (if not more so) but probably more hard wearing and reusable. If I’m correct, then I’d still look at what could be
done in period tabletweaving as
inspiration for what to embroider.
A lovely band of machine embroidery would look
lovely. The other theorem is that it is
easier to embroider a band of fabric and apply it to a garment than embroider the finished garment.
And I’m quite sure not everyone could afford
gold. Silver tarnishes though, so doesn’t
seem to be a popular choice.
As for which is most authentic – I still love
tabletweaving (but then that’s also
because I love weaving), but I’d say either embroidery or trim – it’s going to depend on the pattern. Embroidery
based on a 12th century
example is going to be more authentic than a
commercial trim with a nice pattern, but
the patterns on some trims may be closer to period motif’s than the pre-programmed designs in your sewing
machine, or a random design you think
looks pretty. – In the end do what looks nice, we don’t seem to have a huge library of period trim designs yet.
~ Teffania Tukerton / Tiffany Brown
Message #1055, April 22, 2003