Sleeves?

I’ve seen the argument for both the angel wing sleeve and the maunch-type sleeve. Do the more learned folks on this list lean towards one or the other? Also, what is a good length for the sleeves? I’m not sure I have enough fabric for them to go all the way to the floor, is knee length ok, or should I just do something else with that fabric?
~ Giovanna
Message #1026, April 16, 2003

I have seen very little evidence for the angel wing sleeves in the French sources. I’m definitely a maunch girl. The length was a matter of fashion and convenience. Floor length ones are a pain to wear and not particularly common in the art work. Knee length is just fine.

~ Rowena Le Sarjent / Belinda Sibly
Message #1028, April 16, 2003

Not that I count myself among the esteemed ‘learned’, I have seen ranges of sleeves starting to widen from the shoulder, to tighter upper arm, usually with band, and increasing from mid upper arm to wrist or elbow to wrist, and then finally increasing just the last few inches of the arm. There is definitely a wide array to choose from. If you design your gown to have the sleeve attach mid upper arm, a folded over section of 45″ fabric makes an economic use of fabric and you can use the triangular shaped left over pieces to make gores for the gown too. The sleeve I saw widening from the shoulder was on an Italian gown. I have never seen a sleeve widening from the shoulder caught into an upper arm band, making the poofy section at the top (a la the ‘Accolade’ painting). My personal preference and stylistic choice is generally for obscenely long sleeves that might be knotted widening sharply from just above the elbow to wrist area. I like the extravagance shown in high court 12th century fashion. YMMV!

~ Katrine de Saint Brieuc / Katherine Barich
Message #1029, April 16, 2003